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Small islands have always been objects of desire for a certain kind of man ambitious to rule his own tiny nation.
One Hebridean isle asserted its independence, but can its way of life survive? Tue 26 Sep It was the kind of explosive Highland summer day when butterflies jinked out of the steaming greenery and every foxglove, fuchsia and yellow flag iris seemed to have simultaneously burst into flower.
Small islands are like celebrities: While St Kilda is renowned for its extinction as a place of human settlement, Eigg is celebrated for its rebirth. This triumph of David versus Goliath has forged an apparently inspirational, sustainable community of people.
On first glance, it appears at once industriously creative and attractively lackadaisical: Eigg has suffered more than most over the perennial small-island question of ownership. Larger British isles, such as the islands of Shetland and Orkney, or the Isle of Man, have at least in modern times avoided the vexation of capricious landlords. Perhaps their remoteness, or the strength of their local culture, militate against individual possession, but it may simply be sheer size. For the last two centuries, these beautiful, fecund Hebridean islands have been objects of desire for wealthy men — and it has always been men — who love islands, with disastrous consequences for both sides.
It is a cautionary tale: Novelists cocoon their creativity — and fragile egos — on islands, too. But its matriarchy was despoiled by a succession of men whose craving for Eigg outdid their means.
It was bought by an elderly Welsh farmer whose Hereford cattle promptly died of bracken poisoning. It turned out that the most Farnham-Smith had commanded was a fire brigade, and Eigg was back on the market in O n 1 April , Keith Schellenberg, a dashing, Yorkshire-born businessman and former Olympic bobsleigher, acquired Eigg.
Legend has it that Schellenberg found himself locked in his home at Udny Castle, a grand pile belonging to his second wife, with the deadline for a blind auction for Eigg approaching. The 39 remaining islanders — an all-time population low — were initially pleased.
Farnham-Smith had kept the wooden community hall locked, but in a popular early move Schellenberg gave it back to the islanders so there could be badminton in winter and dances in summer. Dozens of ceilidhs took place during that first golden year.
Unlike other Highland lairds, Schellenberg was a vegetarian who objected to shooting, and he encouraged the Scottish Wildlife Trust to create three nature reserves. Buildings were renovated for holiday homes, and flashy boats, including a motor cruiser called the Golden Eye, brought tourists to the island.
Job ads in national newspapers brought an influx of new residents to work for the new owner. Maggie and Wes Fyffe were running a craft workshop on the east coast of Scotland when Schellenberg turned up and invited them to start a similar project on Eigg.
She and Wes loved Eigg and felt an immediate sense of belonging. The couple had two children and, on Eigg, they no longer felt excluded from things.
In keeping with most Hebridean islanders, the Gaelic-speaking Eigg natives were far from insular. She mentions an old islander who has travelled the globe and fought in Palestine. That outward-facing mentality is still a feature of the island.
By the summer of , Eigg was open for business. The population jumped to 60 and the school, that crucial barometer of small-island health, suddenly had 12 pupils. There was a new tearoom and craft centre; moped hire, day cruises, sea angling, lobster fishing and pony trekking were advertised as on offer.
Visitors could even help with haymaking or shearing sheep. Unfortunately, when the tourists arrived, these activities were rarely available. Staff turnover was worryingly high. New employees were housed in run-down buildings with polythene for windowpanes.
One likened him to Mr Toad: Guests would perch on the running board as he drove them to beach picnics or moonlit games of hockey.
She remembers a German playboy landing in the Lodge gardens in a helicopter. Two models dressed in catsuits brandishing toy guns stepped out first. During the games the island ceilidh band, who had agreed to play for his wealthy guests, decided there would be a small entrance fee to raise money for a new hall.
When Schellenberg discovered that his American friends had been charged, he demanded that their money be returned. Behind the comedy was genuine suffering. In , Schellenberg had divorced his wealthy second wife and, suddenly much poorer, was running Eigg on a shoestring.
The farm manager quit, labourers were made redundant and the tractors ran out of diesel. His regime was propped up by generous government tax breaks for new, environmentally damaging plantations of non-native Sitka spruce.
Schellenberg would employ and sack people on a total whim, so there was no security. Older inhabitants were welcoming, if perplexed to see newcomers adopt the life they urged their children to escape. The laird was struggling to earn one, too. Planned golf courses and tennis courts never materialised, and tourism petered to a halt. Across the Highlands, by the s, there were growing calls for land reform.
Tom Forsyth, an unsung hero of Scottish land reform who had helped regenerate crofting on an isolated peninsula north of Ullapool, imagined that Eigg could become a new Iona — like that much-visited Scottish isle, a place of spiritual pilgrimage, creativity and prosperity. In they launched a public appeal: The following May, Schellenberg was forced by his ex-wife to put Eigg up for sale. In July , it was bought by the highest bidder: The police arrived to investigate but the culprits were never identified.
Schellenberg returned to Eigg one last time to requisition an map of the island from the craft shop. Then they took the day off to see what would happen next. A local police officer told the furious ex-landlord that if no one claimed ownership of the bus within 30 days he could remove it. Schellenberg stormed off, by boat. Maruma arrived with grand plans.
He declared it was impossible to own Eigg and vowed to improve opportunities for the community, build a swimming pool, and replace the dirty diesel generators that provided electricity with an integrated system of wind and solar power. The press discovered that, unfortunately, Maruma was not quite what he seemed: The Trust redoubled its fundraising efforts. Concerts took place in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Tyrone — and even Detroit — to raise funds.
According to Alastair McIntosh, most donations came from England. The wildlife trusts, including the Scottish Wildlife Trust, were particularly effective at mobilising their members to help Eigg.
It is the ultimate purchase you can make, a complete miniature world of which you can be king. Finally, the people of Eigg owned their island.
C ommunity-owned Eigg is 20 years old now. Like a celebrity, it must handle fame, fans, negative publicity and hangers-on. A constant stream of filmmakers, journalists, anthropologists and scientists pitch up to study the place, so I sense a certain weariness when I pull my notebook from my pocket.
Sarah Boden moved back to Eigg in , after years as a music journalist in London. The hangover, an eruption of mean-spiritedness, came six years later. A Scottish-German journalist, a critic of land reform, visited Eigg and penned an unflattering portrayal of the new island rulers for Die Zeit in Germany, which British tabloids were only too happy to echo. There was another charge too: I chatted to the owner-captain of the little boat Shearwater on my way to Eigg and he criticised his larger rival, the government-subsidised CalMac ferry.
Subsidies are hoovered up by whoever owns land in Britain. It does seem unfair, then, to criticise the islanders for applying for the subsidies enjoyed by wealthier landowners.
P lenty of outsiders look more positively upon Eigg. Young people were carving wood and learning how to build boats. To my surprise, this man of Lewis was born in Doncaster to an English mother and a Scottish father. He cherishes Eigg, which represents a rare win for activists. He recently returned to Eigg.
The old divide between indigenous people and newcomers has disappeared on Eigg with a younger generation who are a melange of both. Incomers who have fitted in with island life, and not just come to buy the view, have taken on the best Hebridean traditions of spirituality, cooperation, hospitality and music, and Eigg has attracted people wanting to participate in a less materialistic community.
The fact that the community owns the island of Eigg makes it different from alternative-minded communities in, say, Totnes or Hebden Bridge, or almost any place in England where daily life, and most possibilities, are mediated through the land-ownership of private individuals. England has never recovered from the Norman conquest. That deeply embedded class system is so divisive. Low-rent societies where residents are liberated from the grind of earning a lot to pay for a house are likely to be more radical, creative places: McIntosh echoes an earlier writer of the Highlands, Hugh MacDiarmid, by raising the question of what a small island might bring to a bigger one.
The centre needs the periphery as a source of inspiration and renewal, just as the periphery relies on the centre. Eigg may be able to give the larger island at its side some practical lessons in affordable housing, renewable energy and land reform. Be open to outsiders and to the world. Live as generalists, not as sclerosed super-specialists. Spend more time outside. Make our own energy or, at worst, buy it by the sack, and then we will use less.
This nostalgic mountain town is the perfect home base for exploring, reconnecting or simply soaking up the view. Not to mention, there are plenty of fun things to do here.
Come find out why fall is one of the most popular times to visit Maggie Valley. Maggie Valley, North Carolina, is home to a wide variety of restaurants. Our little mountain town serves up everything from fine Italian dishes to true Southern home cooking.
A Smoky Mountain cabin might be perfect for a family vacation. A bed and breakfast or cozy inn might be ideal for a romantic getaway. Golfers, hikers, museum-lovers, sightseers and shoppers will all be at home here. September 23, Bulletin. September 16, Bulletin. September 9, Bulletin.
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August 6, Bulletin. July 30, Bulletin. July 23, Bulletin. Start with a tasty appetizer -- choose from jumbo shrimp cocktail, buffalo wings, homemade French onion soup, award-winning cheese sticks, Carolina cheese fries, or J. Arthur's popular onion rings. A few favorite entrees include prime rib, steaks, bass, shrimp and grits, salmon, ribs, and slow roasted meatloaf.
Also on the menu is lobster tails or Surf and Turf. From the grill, you can select from pork sandwich, burger, Philly cheese steak, chicken strips, fish and chips, or a combo plate with fried shrimp, cheese sticks, ribs, and wings.
A kid's menu aims to please even the pickiest of eaters.
Best Breakfast Restaurants in Maggie Valley, North Carolina Mountains: Find TripAdvisor traveler reviews of the best Breakfast Restaurants in Maggie Valley, and search by price, location, and more. Maggie Valley offers numerous festivals, bluegrass music, multiple concerts, dancing, clogging, much more all throughout the year. During the spring, summer and fall seasons you can enjoy Wheels Trough Time Motorcycle Museum. & Cherokee's Santa's Land Theme Park and Zoo. Day Trip to Bryson City, NC is a must when you visit Western North Carolina. This is a unique town in that offers family fun. Begin your day with a bountiful breakfast in Maggie Valley then head over Soco Mountain to Cherokee.