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Really just wanting friends for now. In Holbrook, the line of saloons between the tracks and the river supported at first by railroad worker paychecks now served a hard-working, hard-drinking, quick shooting bunch of cowboys.
Some who read newspaper accounts worried that Holbrook and Tombstone could tarnish the whole territory, dampening business investment and chances for statehood. Owens was not reelected in Still, Holbrook maintained a reputation for over-the-top lawlessness and tough law enforcement for more than another decade. In , Navajo County Sheriff F. Wattron was criticized by the President of the United States for issuing a too gleeful invitation to a hanging.
It turned out to be the only hanging to ever take place in Holbrook. Apache county had been created out of the eastern part of Yavapai County in by powerful mercantile and sheep interests centered in St. Johns, which became county seat.
But as Winslow and Holbrook blossomed with the railroad there was a struggle to wrestle the county seat away from St. Finally, Navajo County was created out of the west half of Apache County by the territorial legislature in and Holbrook narrowly beat Winslow to become county seat.
This panorama looking west shows how the railroad ran down the center of the main business street. In the s there were only a few scattered homes on the north side of the tracks on the right in this view and no business buildings. The residential neighborhood was first located among the cottonwoods that lined the river, seen at left. The Navajo County Courthouse is seen at extreme right, built on higher ground.
Floods would soon drive the residential and business districts in that direction. Several years of drought followed by the severe winter of killed half of the cattle grazing the Hashknife range and the beef industry collapsed just as it had in Texas. Aztec Land and Cattle filed for bankruptcy in and Holbook entered a period of relative tranquility.
Now calamity visited the community only in the form of periodic disasters. The big fire of was followed by flood in Drought and overgrazing by sheep and cattle produced more silt in the Rio Puerco and Little Colorado until the stream bed was higher than parts of town. The flood of was the worst ever, cutting off Holbrook by rail, highway, telephone and telegraph.
Streets were inundated, homes and commercial buildings washed away and one life lost. Beginning in the s the US Army Corps of Engineers constructed levees to protect those homes and businesses that remained on the south side of the tracks.
Work on the levees continues today. One of the earlier motels catering to travelers on Route 66 is pictured about With the development of automobile travel, Holbrook businesses came to line two main streets, Navajo Boulevard seen here looking north in and Hopi Drive running west and east one block north of this view. The left side of this block is hard to recognize today, taken over by giant plaster dinosaurs advertising a rock shop.
Trains stopped at Adamana, 15 miles east of Holbrook, for tours of Petrified Forest National Monument created in Coming from California, the automobile road followed the Santa Fe railway until Holbrook. There it crossed the Little Colorado River twice to go south to St. Johns and Springerville and into New Mexico. When named highways were given numbers in , US Highway 66 from Winslow took a new alignment at Holbrook, staying north of the Rio Puerco.
Judging by the number of cars, The Motaurant was a popular stop on west Highway 66, Hopi Drive in Holbrook when this postcard was issued late in or early Drinks and then back on narrow, two-lane Route 66 at mph. Lewis based on a design used for six other such motels from California to Florida, it was first called Wigwam Village No. Though closed from when I bypassed the downtown, today it is still operated by the Lewis family.
Besides the seven Villages, there were other teepee design motels, including one in Tempe. In , Holbrook became the terminus of a new railroad, the Apache Railway extending south to sawmills at Snowflake, Standard and McNary.
Lumber became a commodity shipped out of Holbrook. Today, the Apache Railway brings paper from a mill near Snowflake. Over the years, Holbrook has also been a supply point by truck for the Hopi mesas to the north and the Mormon settlements to the south, along Highway Highway also comes in from the south, from Heber and the rim country. But it was Route 66 that created one long strip development through downtown Holbrook, offering travelers a variety of gasoline stations, restaurants, motels, curio shops and amusements.
This is the intersection of Hopi Drive and Navajo Boulevard, looking northeast about The cupola of the courthouse is seen above the yellow-brick Masonic Lodge Motorists on Route 66 headed east would drive the length of Hopi until arriving at this intersection at lower left, then turn left to proceed north on Navajo, passing the courthouse.
If they turned right, they would pass the scene pictured above in , cross the railroad tracks and the river with the option to head south toward Snowflake Highway 77 or southeast toward St. Johns US in but renumbered today. This s Agfachrome aerial photo by Bob Petley locates Holbrook between the Little Colorado River at lower right corner and the reddish bluffs bordering the river valley.
You can easily make out the Wigwam Motel on long and wide Hopi Drive click on the picture to see full-size and the Santa Fe railroad running parallel one block south. In upper left, Navajo Boulevard has climbed out of the valley to curve back to the east as Route 66, going to the Petrified Forest on the horizon.
Ellis, Holbrook and the Petrified Forest Searching for gold, prospectors found silver instead, in the rugged mountains south of the Salt River canyon in the early s. Within a few years, Globe City would be built along Pinal creek, in a small valley between the Pinal Mountains on the southwest and the Apache Mountains on the northeast. When the silver played out, copper would bring even greater wealth. And after about 50 years of mining copper, after all the copper mines at Globe closed, the city would survive nevertheless.
The military, operating out of a western ring of forts had been determinately confining the Apache people to a reservation in the mountains of eastern Arizona created by executive order of President U.
Grant November 9, This allowed prospectors into the Pinal and Apache Mountains where they found small globes of silver. One group of men filed a claim on the Globe Ledge discovery in This was followed by adjacent claims in and Whether impressed by the shape of the silver nuggets or more likely the world renown they were sure was to come, they named it the Globe Mining District in the Globe Hills with the streets of Globe City laid out down on the creek.
When a survey was made, all this was found to be on Apache reservation land. Friends in Washington got the reservation boundary line moved east several times to accommodate each new discovery. Still, proximity to Apache lands has always played a role in the history of Globe. This Apache family depicted about , possibly camped near Globe, would have traveled there to trade at the stores. At first, the Department of Interior and the military tried to round up all Apache tribes in the southwest on the San Carlos reservation east of globe, with shrinking reservation boundaries every few years.
Then, a policy change sent Apache families to five reservations across the state. It undoubtedly shows the staff, including two young boys in an express wagon who delivered groceries and probably a salesman in a buggy.
The butcher is all in white, and since women rarely worked in a store unless they owned it, I assume that the owners are the lady and the well-dressed man to her left. The other four men and boys would be clerks and stock clerks. Then again, maybe the butcher was the owner. A lot of the details of history have been lost.
Riches poured out of the land. Rich silver ores within a few miles of Globe were yielding to ounces per ton.
Smelters and furnaces were profitably roasting rocks all along the mineral belt even though all supplies had to be transported to the remote area by wagon teams. This view of the Old Dominion works about is looking approximately south toward the town of Globe in the valley at left with the snowcapped Pinal Mountains on the horizon.
The head frame for the underground shaft is out of view at left. A recently added concentrator has five smoke stacks and a growing pile of waste in the right foreground. Behind is the big stack of the smelter. Being in Arizona on business and near Globe, I thought I would take a run up and see it. It is not on the main line but mi. Talk about being in the mountains, all surroundings are like the picture on the reverse side. This is a scene inside the smelter pictured above about the same year.
At the end of the mining, concentrating and smelting process pure molten copper is poured into molds to become ingots. Today, an electrolytic process produces pure copper cathodes. The Southern Pacific railroad had built across the state to New Mexico by the end of Heavy mining machinery, furnace clay, lead catalyst and everything else needed in Globe could be transferred from relatively cheap railroad shipping to relatively expensive wagon train miles from Globe.
This arrangement lasted more than 15 years and still mining proved profitable, even during the mids recession. That kind of treasure deserves a rail link he concluded. Several attempts had already been financial failures, but finally with mining company money, in the Gila Valley, Globe and Northern Railway was formed and tracks reached Globe four years later.
The line would eventually became part of the Southern Pacific empire but is now operated again by a small company. Though laborious hand drilling of blasting holes gave way to steam drills in the s, hand drilling contests were popular events bringing out huge crowds for another couple decades. This is a Globe team in The little girl is ready with a water hose to cool and lubricate the bit and clear dust. Copper mining at Globe became increasingly profitable, leading workers to join unions and demand higher wages and better benefits.
After a number of strikes, the Greatest Copper Camp finally suffered the greatest miners strike in When the United States entered the European war that year, patriotism reached a fever pitch.
President Wilson criminalized speaking against the war effort and demanded greatly increased copper production for shell casings and electrical wiring in battleships. Globe was a multi-ethnic community with Hispanic workers paid less than union scale. Rumors spread through town that Austrian immigrants working in the mines were planning fifth-column sabotage on behalf of the Huns.
Irish workers were also suspect. The Fourth of July holiday fell right in the middle of a desperate and extremely contentious walkout by 2, miners from both unions. The companies hired armed guards and the county sheriff deputized citizens. Republican Governor Thomas Campbell showed up with federal army troops since the National Guard had gone off to war.
A Loyalty League recruited patriots to oppose the workers. There were mass arrests. It seemed chaos reigned for nearly four months, but in the end a compromise was found and most of the workers went back to work for higher pay and somewhat better benefits. Jurors refused to convict the only union leader brought to trial. Remarkably, with all the brandishing of loaded guns, only two deaths occurred, a train ran over a soldier and a horse kicked a federal conciliator. Their pistol-packing leader is sitting down in front.
This truck was one of the entries in the Fourth of July parade at the beginning of the strike. Long after hangings at county jails were banned in and hanging was replaced by the gas chamber in , Globe holds the distinction of claiming the last legal hanging in Arizona. It was a gruesome, botched strangulation of an Apache under the federal death penalty statute in Machula  at http: Despite the violence, despite its remote location and despite unstable copper prices the boomtown survived.
It rebuilt after fires in and The census found Globe the seventh largest town in the territory. By it had dropped to tenth. After the railroad came it bounced up to fifth place in and fourth in Being county seat helped. Government jobs, taxes and appropriations have always kept some Arizona communities afloat, as others faded into ghost towns. Nearly half of all employment in Gila County in was in some level of government. The town was built around a single main street, Broad Street, seen here about This is the block between Oak and Sycamore on the west side of Broad Street.
By the electric company had become part of Arizona Edison Company, next door to the renamed Fox theater. Looking north at the east side of Broad Street about in the same block shown above, the Gila County Courthouse is on the corner with a flag on the roof, across Oak Street from the Hotel Globe.
The other building with a flag, farther down the street, is the Trust or European Building The photo colorized was undoubtedly taken from a balcony on the Dominion Hotel. In the distance you can just see the Old Dominion smelter smoke stack. The courthouse, now Cobre Valley Center for the Arts, is still a point of pride. The Trust Building burned in The opening of large mines at the new town of Miami from to , a few miles away, benefited the county seat.
Copper production from Globe-Miami mines surpassed Bisbee in and remained in the lead until the s. But while other copper mines in Arizona shifted to open pit extraction, the Old Dominion remained an underground operation. Tunneling reached the aquifer in and pumps had to be installed, adding to the cost. With the coming of the Great Depression copper mines all over the state closed, including the Old Dominion in When copper prices rose again the workforce in Globe drove to Miami for high paid jobs.
Transportation spending brings prosperity for many Arizona communities. While Globe remained far from a railroad mainline it did end up on well-traveled highways.
Most of this freight would come from Mesa, but the Southern Pacific railroad began bringing tourists to Globe. There, they would board buses for a scenic ride over the Apache Trail, returning to the train in Mesa. When transcontinental highways were built and lined with gasoline stations and motels, Globe was a stop on the Lee Highway beginning in Later it would be numbered US Highway and by renumbered Highway Another highway, connecting Phoenix with Springerville, Highway 60, was routed through Globe in The common design of cabins with garages around a central court provided a bed for the night.
They were called auto courts or motor hotels or by some variation. The El Rey still in business opened in and probably issued this card the same year. These photos appear to have been taken when the new eatery opened in December The last few decades have been brutal for Arizona copper towns, finally leaving most of Globe and Miami out of work.
Housing development peaked and investors turned to driving up metal prices. Just before the present economic depression, high copper prices looked to reopen the Miami mines. Neither Miami nor Globe, four miles to the east, has enough dwellings to accommodate the new miners and their families. This northern Arizona city in the pines exists because it is on a convenient transportation corridor spanning the continent. Between and , Army troops under the command of Lieutenant Edward F.
Travelers on the road would have sight of the landmark San Francisco Peaks for more than 75 miles in either direction and could water at Leroux Springs at the southwest base of the mountain. The second Boston party arrived in Antelope Valley on July 4th and made a pine tree into a flagpole to celebrate the centennial of the Declaration of Independence.
Finding the clearings between the copious Leroux Springs and the meager Antelope Spring 12 miles south a disappointing location for farming the Boston parties moved on, but their patriotic flagpole was the talk of the territory. As soon as it became clear that rails would pass by Antelope Spring, very early in a Prescott merchant and his nephew established a store on the side of the hill where water trickled out of the ground.
That April Atlantic and Pacific Railroad surveyors staked out curves along the hillside and a group of Mormon entrepreneurs settled close to Leroux Springs to grade roadbed and cut ties all along the line.
A primitive line of tents, log cabins and board buildings soon graced the hillside with a post office named Flagstaff in the general store. This is a small portion of the commercial buildings that first lined the single street of Flagstaff, pictured by Albuquerque photographer Ben Wittick, probably in March There is a telegraph line and across the street out of view, railroad tracks and the spring.
Like every other town on the railroad front, Flagstaff was a dangerous cauldron of male exuberance supported by hefty railroad paychecks. Many were the shootings in the town. Stemmer, A Brand From the Burning , The railroad put a water tank for their thirsty steam locomotives and a couple box cars for a depot in a relatively flat part of the valley about a mile east of the town on the hill.
The general store and the larger saloons moved to a site opposite the depot in and built substantial buildings. Another Wittick photo likely taken in late summer documents the first buildings in New Town, down in Antelope Valley about a mile east of the spring. If anyone tried to make Flagstaff a nice town, they were plagued by too much fire and too little water. Old Town burned down in , then New Town burned in and The sawmill, despite a supply of water pumped from a spring, burned in Then the business district burned again in , taking the railroad depot too.
The town had to ban wooden structures downtown, opting instead for sandstone cut at a quarry about three miles east. Soon after it opened in , the quarry was shipping rail cars of stone all over the west. Looking northwest toward Flagstaff and the San Francisco Peaks around , the sandstone railroad depot built in is at left, with the commercial district behind it.
You can see the steeple of the Methodist-Episcopal church completed in and the Babbitt Brothers store with awnings open over its first floor windows. At the right edge of the photo, sandstone walls are going up for the new courthouse completed in Water supply has always been a problem for Flagstaff.
It took a lot of money and much work to finally lay a pipeline in from springs high on the Peaks. Surface water had to be added from upper Lake Mary reservoir in , followed by an ever increasing number of deep wells beginning in Workers are stacking rough-cut lumber for air drying at the Arizona Lumber and Timber company mill in the s.
Chicago lumberman Edward E. Ayer sold his sawmill established in to D. Rebuilding after several fires, it continued production under a number of owners until Old Town is behind the mill on the hill seen at left, while New Town is in front of the trees in the distance at right.
Behind New Town is the hazy outline of Mount Elden. In , Flagstaff got a second big sawmill built about five miles east of town by the Greenlaw family.
Then a third sawmill was located in on the southeast side of town called the Flagstaff Lumber Manufacturing Company.
This postcard view from about shows the Santa Fe Railroad mainline in the foreground, successor to the old A. Today, Flagstaff has no sawmills and the county jail has been built on the site shown here. Five Babbitt Brothers came to Flagstaff from Cincinnati beginning in and started the CO Bar cattle ranch, and a mercantile and Indian trading business organized in The locally quarried cut sandstone building had been greatly enlarged in and then again by the time this photograph was made in the early s.
By the s, the business had expanded to include trading posts, a supermarket chain and lumber yards in towns across northern Arizona. By the s the small town was publicizing its sunshine, pure air and mountain spring water.
It became a lodging and outfitting point for tourists going to the Grand Canyon. The local cycling club blazed a trail and stages were making the trip three times a week by Silent film production crews came in the s with Zane Grey scripts. Arizona Snow Bowl ski runs opened in , and expanded after the war. By , the Black Canyon Highway connected Phoenix with Flagstaff, bringing more visitors for winter snows or cool summers.
A large sandstone building to house a reform school was constructed on the far south side of Flagstaff with a state appropriation in Money ran out and the community had to wait until before the building could get windows and doors. The Sisters of Loretto at the Foot of the Cross were assigned to teach a parochial school in Flagstaff from A small building for St. Increased enrollment led to the addition of a larger school building on the block in , then an addition shown here in The building is seen attached to the rear and then farther behind is a separate building, the convent which became the rectory from The parish church was also in the addition until Everything seen here was torn down in , replaced by a modern school building which is still in use.
In Percival Lowell, attracted to the thin air at that altitude, picked a site on the hill above Old Town Spring to point a telescope through the skylight at the planet Mars.
His observatory became an important scientific institution, and the site of the discovery of Pluto in Other scientists came to Flagstaff too. Fort Valley Experimental Forest was established near Leroux Springs in and is still teaching rangers how to care for trees. The Museum of Northern Arizona was created in to study the landscape and cultures of the Colorado Plateau.
US Geological Survey established an astrogeology laboratory in Flagstaff in to train astronauts how to walk on the moon. There is a US Naval observatory to the west and a couple of university telescopes to the south.
Here is the same corner of Railroad Avenue and San Francisco Street seen above in , this time photographed about The newsstand was the last surviving wood-frame structure downtown after an ordinance required fire-proof construction.
The Ford sign points to Babbitt Ford two blocks north. Sawmill production increased in the s and the railroad built a marshalling yard in on the east side to ship materials to the Glen Canyon Dam construction site at Page. It had become a college town with increasing enrollment at what had been the normal school. In , the college became Northern Arizona University. Through the sixties and seventies, Flagstaff struggled to attract higher paying jobs as the timber industry collapsed.
Nor could it accommodate the increased automobile traffic that came with growth. In the eighties it had a makeover, closing the old cowboy saloons and creating upscale neighborhoods and trendy art galleries, boutiques and bistros downtown.
But racial tensions and income inequities persist. The Beale Road was eventually replaced by an automobile highway and Flagstaff became one long strip development of filling stations, motels, restaurants and parking lots.
Tourism and the hospitality industry eventually made more money for the community than manufacturing forest products.
Sharber operated the gas station. Route 66 was two lanes of concrete when this postcard was published by the prolific Bob Petley of Phoenix about This particular section survives, though overtopped with asphalt, leading from Interstate, Exit Walnut Canyon to Flagstaff Mall. There are a few billboards visible click on picture to see large size. Motorists were greeted on either side of town by dozens of billboards advertising locally-owned small businesses.
After a great deal of effort most billboards were removed. Now they are back, bigger ones advertising big nationwide chains. This agfachrome by Bob Petley shows downtown Flagstaff in the s. The turquoise blue, 5-story Valley Bank building is in the center. The railroad depot has a bright white roof, while the depot is the brown building at the left edge of the photo.
Route 66 is the street paralleling the railroad tracks. You can see how the city is built up in Antelope Valley name no longer used between Mars Hill, the site of Lowell Observatory on the left and McMillan Mesa on the right. At left, below Mars Hill is a little blue pond in the trees, close by where the Flagstaff ranch was located. Copper, Cattle, Cotton, Citrus and Climate. They have traditionally been what made our towns and communities grow.
They provided jobs and opportunities. Arizona, like the rest of the country, is undergoing an economic transformation. Whole new industries are being created, while others die or struggle to survive. Business as usual is changing. Arizona is moving from a mining and agriculturally oriented economy, to a high-technology and service based economy. This is changing the patterns of where Arizonans live and work. Change continues in Arizona, across the nation and the globe. This photo by Hubert A.
Lowman published by Fred Harvey shows a group just off a Fred Harvey tour bus at Hopi Point gazing in awe at the colorful erosions ca. Beginning in the twentieth century Arizona has always been the leading copper producing state in the nation. From to , Arizona mines extracted 8.
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