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By Lisa Hix — March 7th, At New York Fashion Week last month, this extravagant, expensive material was so abundant , it might have been everyday wool. Not just seen on coats, jackets, and stoles, designers fashioned furs into skirts, oversize mittens, dresses, blouses, and even hoodies. Most of the top designers, including Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Marc Jacobs, showed real fur in some form on the runway.
The same can be said for fashion. You can see it as a voyeuristic experience. Eighty-five percent of animals killed in the fur industry come from fur farms—dismal places where foxes, rabbits, minks, chinchilla, and other animals spend their entire short lives in these tiny, filthy metal cages.
Courtesy of Bustown Modern. For fashionistas who love both animals and wearing fur, going vintage seems like a simple solution. But according to Griffin, vintage fur is actually to blame for the renewed appetite for fur fashions.
By the late s, their sometimes-controversial campaigns, featuring celebrities like Pamela Anderson and Alicia Silverstone, succeeded in creating public distaste for furs, so that they no longer appeared on fashion runways.
Griffin says that Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour credits Carrie Bradshaw with bringing fur, old and new, back into fashion. But vintage dealers like Davis and Elizabeth Hine, of Hinesite Vintage in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, say certain women never stopped loving their furs—and nothing is going to change that.
Davis, who just published on an e-book called The Best Vintage Shops Online , says that vintage clothing in general is greener than the modern fashion industry, and that she would prefer if furriers repurposed old furs rather than kill living animals. One new fur coat, for example, uses as many as 55 minks, chinchillas, or ermines, according to IDA. A silver mosaic chinchilla, a rodent native to the Andes Mountains is becoming rare, because of the popularity of its thick, velvety fur.
Photo by Kjersti Holmang. She says she respects that people have strong opinions about fur, but she wishes they would suggest alternative uses for vintage fur, instead of simply getting angry. Rachel Poliquin, the author of The Breathless Zoo: An animal died in both cases. But one, I guess, has got a little more glamour to it. I think a lot of people like to live in the gray zone.
She says IDA is concerned about the well-being of cows—which provide both beef and cowhide—horses, and sheep, as well as the less cuddly cold-blooded animals like snakes, alligators, and crocodiles used for purses, belts, and shoes.
And vintage fur can give you that Old Hollywood luxury, while saving you thousands of dollars. Barguzinsky sable fur-skins in Milan, Italy. Back in the caveman days, clearly warmth was the biggest motivating factor for wearing furs. But in the Middle Ages, certain furs became symbolic of monarchies. Picture a red, fur-trimmed royal robe or crown from a storybook: Do you see white fur with black spots? In Russia, the same held true for sable, the fur of tsars.
Elizabeth I of England was painted with a heraldic ermine, which has black spots over its entire body. Courtesy of the Hatfield House. According to Poliquin, who is working on a book on the history of the beaver industry, in the mids, Europeans discovered that beaver fur felted into the best wool for hats.
The shortage of beavers on the continent soon meant the North American beaver trade with Native Americans in Canada became extremely important. Everyone fell in love with it. Then in the 19th century, silk came to replace beaver, and then the beaver trade fell apart. The difference in how people view fur may also have something to do with how much nature is a part of their day-to-day lives, Poliquin explains.
I can see that an increasingly urban population would prefer not be reminded: This is not just a beautiful piece of fabric; somebody died to give it to me. This vintage fox scarf is made of four foxes, with at least two faces, eight feet, and four tails of the animals.
These days, people want to be less associated with the cruelty, which is why you see the shaved furs and the multi-colored furs now. But without those obvious, identifying features, it becomes easier to mislead buyers about what animal the fur came from.
Coats labeled as chinchilla are often made from chinchilla rex rabbits, bunnies bred to have fluffy, feathery fur like chinchilla, Woods explains. These days nutria, which are similar to guinea pigs, are bred to have fur as soft as mink. It confuses me sometimes, too. While mink and sable are among the most expensive and desirable furs, rabbit fur has always been on the low end.
Other young girls would be gifted faux furs before they got their first real fur. In , Oleg Cassini designed an elegant leopard fur-coat for First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, and suddenly, every woman just had to have a leopard coat—pushing the big cat toward extinction, as more than , were killed for furs. Cassini quickly became an adamant animal-rights activist. A Revlon ad from Women went wild for leopard after Jackie Kennedy wore a leopard-fur coat in Photo by John Rawlings.
Most big cats—even bobcat and Canadian lynx in certain states—are considered endangered. The tricky piece is recognizing furs made from weasel-like spotted civets, which are not endangered and were used to make furs imitating leopard or jaguar, Woods says. These days, you have to be especially careful you can verify what you have is civet. An illustration of an African civet—valued for both its fur and its musk—created by English naturalist Richard Lydekker in Woods says that fur farms have practiced animal husbandry for so long now that they sell the plushest, silkiest furs imaginable today.
Like anything organic, old furs can shed and rot, which is why, according to Griffin, the production of new fur is as toxic to the environment as faux fur: New fur is loaded with chemicals that prevent decay. A glamorous ad for Saga Furs was featured in the September issue of Vogue. Then it just depends on how much you like that fur. Vintage furs in the best condition have been kept in cold storage, Hine says. Like paper or fabric, furs are susceptible to moisture, but also suffer when kept in plastic bags.
The plastic makes fur deteriorate, it gets a little stiff, and the guard hairs will come out. If you want, put it in a pillowcase, something that can breathe. Generally, the most desirable vintage furs come the late s up until the s.
Throughout the decades, top New York and Parisian fashion houses, including James Galanos, Pierre Cardin, Nina Ricci, and Christian Dior, have all hired top furriers to produce their designs from mink, fox, and other animals.
As a result, vintage fur now can be found in every style imaginable. These days, fur is worn with anything, for pretty much any activity. For a casual look, Woods recommends a hip-length short swing coat or a knee-length stroller. I wear it to the grocery store. But then I work from home a hundred hours a week, so going to the grocery store for me is a really good time out. Bustown Modern just sold this cropped jacket, made of arctic fox fur. But if you come across a vintage fur in your attic, or inherited a fur from your grandmother that you feel compelled to dispose of, you have several options.
On her blog, Samantha Davis details several ways to recycle furs , including programs that give used furs to homeless people in cold climates, turn furs into teddy bears for mothers staying at shelters, and use furs for education and period re-creation. These old furs are fashioned into beds for orphaned wildlife, who associate the texture with their lost mothers. Griffin says people can send their furs to In Defense of Animals, too. The only way you can prevent that suffering is to not buy or wear fur of any kind.
Orphaned baby rabbits get cozy on a recycled rabbit fur, thanks to Coats for Cubs. How can we change the new fur industry in such a way that they are producing less or turning to second-hand fur to recycle into new looks? If that can become part of the public consciousness, then we can alleviate the problem, because people as a whole are never going to stop liking fur.
How many animals died horrible deaths having had their habitat destroyed by encroachment? Where does it all end? Yet those who took those animals honored those them by not wasting any part of what they took.
Recycling or re wearing vintage furs to me, extends that honor into another generation. Nor will I support anyone who does. But to produce an item that serves the user gives purpose to that animals hide and life. If your cause is people treating animals horribly to get those furs — then you really should target them and not the end user. But, ultimately, its balancing the ecosystem and environment with other animals for our survival and comfort.
We are animals, and anyone who claims otherwise has a very high opinion of themselves. Fur can also be inexpensive…not everything is mink and sable. And only the delusional would assume that all fur is luxury, and that I purchase items because of their status.
I love the skin-touch feeling of fur. Yes, it came from an animal. Yes, that animal is necessarily dead- killed for its skin… But animals are animals and humans are humans.
Animals should be treated well- that is how responsible and moral people act, however, I do not believe that killing an animal is murder on a par with killing a human!
Every time I touch or see a fur I am reminded what glorious creatures inhabit this world and what a duty we have to protect them- but we should certainly keep their lives in perspective! Judging people for wearing vintage fur is like telling people who buy antique pianos that they support the ivory hunting industry.
Stop rationalizing the brutality of the fur industry, now and the past.
Refusing to allow sex to become a memory, no matter how mundane the mechanics, is how we learn to marry wisdom to maturity. Even that beautiful bicep pales in comparison.
I have been highly sexed all my life. I believe sex and our life force are one and the same. I knew I was attracted to boys and girls by the age of five, even before masturbation.
I lived in what Catholics call a state of impure thought. I imagined sexual play between girls, but also between boys. No one told me about homosexuality — I thought I had invented it.
The withering and judgemental attitudes of the early s made me terrified of experiencing sex and I felt my desires as an aberration — until I discovered gay men. I entered a milieu where sex was appreciated, sought after and openly and proudly discussed in great detail. In my mids, like many bohemians, I undertook sex work to support my theatre work, but also out of a fascination with different sexual cultures.
My life has been a Ferris wheel of experience. I have loved men and women. I have managed to get married three times. I have stumbled into a live-in relationship with a brilliant but macho narcissist who conducted an athletic and enthusiastic seduction of other women on a weekly basis, but for 10 months was a sexual paradise.
But by 45, my mantra was: My sex life bubbled along until my 50s. But at 55, menopause was an ambush. I experienced complete loss of libido overnight. Luckily a woman gynaecologist counselled me: Since the age of 58, I have been delightfully single and mostly self-sexual. Now, at 66, I am no longer sexually impulsive and no longer entering relationships for the sake of a sexual or romantic partnership.
The sexual overdrive of the biological, child-bearing years has gone, leaving me with a more manageable, less all-consuming sex drive. Everything to its season.
I adore being single. I am rather gleeful about all the time I have to myself. Finally, I can devote time to my most intimate relationship — the one with myself.
What will my 70s and 80s will bring? Since I have much less emotional baggage, I suspect I have yet another sexual renaissance or two in my future. I belong to the generation that led the sexual revolution of the s in France. We broke down barriers and fought for the rights to contraception and abortion. All these years later, I am pleading for a new sexual revolution — one for seniors.
I ask myself, how is it that the sexuality of older people is still a taboo? I blame our obsession with youth. To me the goal of sensuality is not to preserve the body I had, but rather to maintain my health and desires. And I believe that, perhaps for the first time, women my age are not afraid to fight this youth-obsessed culture and reclaim our sexuality.
Ours is a dynamic generation, generous and selfish at once, driven by the urge to travel, learn and explore new territory. Even so, sex is not the same as in our youth. It becomes less impulsive, slower, more sensual and all encompassing.
I believe women have a natural gift for erotic intimacy, so if they choose, they can guide their partners along the path to a new, different sexuality. And I believe women also have a responsibility to show their partner how much pleasure they take in being with them, and to help create a kind of erotic complicity that is both tender and gentle.
As they get older, men can become vulnerable. They may be scared of losing their virility. If some octogenarians are still capable of an erection sufficient for penetrative sex, it is because they feel desired. As they get older some people decide to give up on sex. I believe there is no age limit to love, sex and desire, even if we hide it after a certain age.
We should talk about it more. How was it for me?: Sex in my 20s: Order by newest oldest recommendations. Show 25 25 50 All. Threads collapsed expanded unthreaded. From Krakow, Poland, she's lean and hungry, 10 years younger, half the square footage and a good few quid less to insure. She has man's hands and a weird hairnet.
She has a giant, bald stoat and she's not afraid to use it. The count's already trash-talking the other side. He says his Cecilia is "unquestionably" better and "will replace the Mona Lisa as the icon for Leonardo. As simple as that. It's probably not quite how Ruskin would have approached the presentation of two masterworks, but I find this candid vulgarity appealing.
Why not try it with other artists? Postmodern, too, to make iconic-ness, the art-historical equivalent of celebrity, the important issue. As for the pictures in contention, I'm leaning towards the four-out-of-five in the poll. OK, Leonardo's definitely made more of an effort with colouring in the background on the Mona Lisa , and Cecilia has done that annoying thing that blights all my holiday snaps: Then there's that hand and the thing she's cuddling; it takes a while to clock that Lady With an Ermine isn't so titled because she's wearing fur.
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